 by Janet Crawshaw Issue 46 (June-August 09) [Copyright © 2009, The Valley Table] A lifelong farmer learns to grow new crops in new ways. A couple trades big city careers for a small farm to raise a family and heritage livestock. Brothers grow up on a farm and decide to stay to make it their life's work. These are the stories of a diverse new crop of farmers we've profiled who are keeping farming alive in the Hudson Valley and across the country. In this issue, a young man who grew up in Manhattan dreams of being an artist but finds a moral imperative and social conscience bring him back to the land his grandfather farmed and his father saved (the stuff of a novel, perhaps, in another time or another place). Running a 150-acre fruit and vegetable farm is a daunting prospect for even a seasoned farmer, but for a new farmer--a novice in the truest definition of the term--the tasks could be overwhelming. Josh Morgenthau is the son of a nine-term New York City District Attorney and a recent graduate of Yale with a degree in fine arts--hardly the pedigree or training of most farmers. In two seasons, though, Morgenthau has made a quick study of how to farm, but he hasn't been alone--he confers often with his father (who, despite the demands of his job, always has kept actively involved in the farm) and the family's long-time farm (retired) manager pitches in. Morgenthau has hired hands with expertise--an experienced farm consultant, organic vegetable growers, market manager and a crew of interns. This season, Morgenthau will focus his attention on the orchard, learning to spray pesticides to maintain the current crop even as he replants with an eye toward going organic. His goal: to keep the farm going and bring it in line with his environmental philosophy--to be, as he says, "Part of the solution to a broken system." Josh Morgenthau, 25 Fishkill Farms, East Fishkill Products: Apples, peaches, pears, plums, cherries, strawberries, blackberries, blueberries and currants; an expanding array of vegetables-salad greens, lettuces, herbs, kales and chards, tomatoes (heirloom, roma, sungold and more), cucumbers, peppers, eggplant, edamame, summer and winter squashes, carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, potatoes, melons and more. Eggs. Size, scope and methods: Nearly 300 acres total, about 40 acres planted in apple trees, 10 acres in other fruit trees and about 5 acres in vegetables. Vegetables are grown without pesticides or herbicides. The orchards are grown using IPM (integrated pest management). There are 600 laying hens that are pastured supplemented with grain. History: Originally part of a thousand-acre farm started by his grandfather in 1914, most of the land has been sold or developed except for the 300 acres inherited by his father, Robert Morgenthau (nine-term D.A. for New York City), who kept it active under the care of a full-time manager. Fifteen years ago, when the farm manager retired, the land and market were leased to other farmers. Two years ago, the farm was in need of serious revival--from roofing and barn work to fencing and replanting. Last year, the family assumed management, with Josh stepping in to become a farmer. What's Next: A revival of the farm has begun, with becoming organic the ultimate goal. In the interim, "sustainability"--both environmental and financial--is the goal. A deer-proof fence around the orchard and garden has been erected, hundreds of new fruit trees (including Cox's Orange Pippins and Esopus Spitzenbergs--heirloom varieties more suited to organic methods) have been planted and, most recently, sheep have been introduced to help improve the pasture. The new vegetable garden spans 5 acres and will be grown organically. Facts: Morgenthau grew up spending summers on the family's farm and returned two seasons ago, ostensibly to paint, do some gardening and raise some chickens, but he took to farmwork more intently. As much as seeing things done correctly, he says, seeing the mistakes built his confidence to say, "I can do this." This is the first year he will farm independently. In his own words: "I've always been excited by farming--it's a very concrete action. I'm able to use both my hands and work on something that is kind of like an evolving piece of art. But you know, the more I learned about it, the more it felt like a politically and socially important opportunity. It took me getting into farming and doing research to realize what I've been eating my whole life--what the ramifications of those choices has been. I do think having a farm in the family is a tremendous opportunity to do something, to be part of a solution to a broken system." How to Purchase: Products are sold at the on-farm market daily starting June 13 (Closed Mondays); Beacon Farmers' Market (Sunday 10-4); and at two Brooklyn Greenmarkets: Borough Hall (Saturday) and Carroll Gardens (Sunday). Pick-your-own from the orchards in the fall. Fishkill Farms 9 Fishkill Farms Rd., Hopewell Junction; (845) 897-4397; www.fishkillfarms.com |
