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by Anne Dailey Issue 36 (June/July 07) [Copyright © 2007, The Valley Table] Lacto-fermentation is a preserving technique that dates back thousands of years. It takes advantage of the naturally occurring lactic acid found in foods to help preserve them. Lacto-fermented foods are rich in beneficial enzymes and bacteria and can aid in digestion and nutrient absorption. The technique can be used for everything from cabbage to carrots--even grains and fruit--and it's surprisingly simple to do. The pickled items found in most grocery stores and on the side of deli sandwiches are preserved in vinegar, a process that achieves a similar taste, but does not result in fermentation and necessitates arduous home canning. With lacto-fermentation, there are no boiling-water baths or scalding-hot jars; simply screw on a lid and let the process happen. Hawthorne Valley Farm, in Ghent, is one of the foremost producers of lacto-fermented products, including kim chee, sauerkraut and gingered carrots. Seth Travins is the lacto-fermentation master at the farm. The Hudson Valley boasts a growing season that lasts from April to November, and it has begun to extend in both directions with the advent of new technologies, from hydroponic growing to high tunnels. Yet within that, dozens of fruits and vegetables come and go, some with seasons as short as three weeks. We savor the fresh tastes at their peak, but most people ignore the ways that these foods can be preserved for months to come. The preserved flavors will not mimic the freshness of a cherry picked from the tree, or a carrot just pulled from the ground, but they will allow you to savor their essence, in other ways, throughout the year. For hundreds of years people have been preserving foods, using a wide variety of techniques including drying, canning, cold storage, pickling, and more. Techniques are varied--some have become more advanced, like dehydration, but many traditional methods are still very much in use. In Saving the Season we will bring you preserving techniques for a wide variety of fruits and vegetables, with tips from chefs, farmers, home gardeners and our own kitchen. So don't despair when thinking about the fleeting sweetness of a strawberry or the short-lived heirloom tomato. Get out those canning jars, freezer bags, and drying racks and save the season. Come next February, you'll be glad you did. |