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Valley Table staff Issue 44 (Dec 08-Feb 09) [Copyright © 2008, The Valley Table] Winter squash moves to the center of the plate at The Bar at The Rhinecliff Hotel, where Chef Rei Peraza takes full advantage of the new crop. His dish of roasted squashes makes a nourishing vegetarian entree or hearty side when paired (as we enjoyed it) with the La Belle Rouge chicken also on the menu. "It's my favorite thing to eat this time of year. We do lots of variations," Chef Peraza says. Depending on availability, he likes to use three kinds of squash at a time, combining the nutty flavor of butternut, the savory, chestnut-like flavor of red kuri, and delicata, which is similar to sweet potato. "This time of year, the squashes are very new--recently picked, they have a high water content," he notes. "I like to cook them on the skin--like cooking a chicken or fish on the bone. The skin gives the squash structural integrity and flavor." The dish builds layer upon layer of earthiness: The mushrooms add an almost meaty texture; the pecans amplify the nuttiness and add a little crunch; the buckwheat honey adds depth and has an intense aroma. Finished with a drizzle of hazelnut oil and shavings of piave, the flavors meld perfectly. "It's not a recipe of precise measurements," Peraza notes. "Cooking should be an evolutionary process, both for the cook and the food. Since there is no real baking involved, if you combine the ingredients and follow my method, you will undoubtedly come up with something that tastes good, that is more personal and is more yours than mine. It's the process of cooking. Have some fun with it." The Rhinecliff is a new boutique country inn. The Bar, a brasserie-style restaurant, serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Chef Peraza says he'll change the menu to take advantage of what's seasonal and fresh. He aims for the line between high-end fine dining and casual, gastropub food from a ploughman's board to sweetbreads, grilled rib eye to fish and chips. | 
